February 23, 2010

With a few exceptions most sinologists enjoy a trip to China and immerse themselves in the Chinese culture and surroundings. Last month the visiting professor from Leiden mentioned to me how he was taking in the Chineseness of Hong Kong, from the fashion of the students to the art of Kunqu opera. He also enjoyed going to Chinese restaurants, not only because the food tastes so good, but the entire ambience, the smell, the way the food is served, the waiters, the venue. He said he misses it when he is back home in The Netherlands. Although I am part of it every day, living in Hong Kong, I too can be much aware of Chinese culture, last week for instance, I was sitting at a typical local cafe they call ‘cha canting’ in Nan Shan Cun, just a short walking distance from campus, but quite a different world from CityU and Festival Walk, no foreigners about and everything Chinese. With the menu in Chinese and waiters not speaking English, it is possible to thoroughly absorb the local atmosphere. With most Chinese people assuming you (as a Laowai) do not understand Chinese, they usually continue their conversation and this allows for full appreciation of whatever is going on. Which reminds me of a friend of mine who told me an anecdote. He was sitting on a bench in the park one day feeling a little sleepy and when he closed his eyes he heard a passerby say in Chinese ‘Gee, he looks tired,’ and the other said ‘Yeah, must be jet lag!’

Written by: Audrey

February 3, 2010

This morning I was travelling on the train and witnessed a quarrel over a seat. The funny thing was that the man was a foreigner (Gwai Lo) and the woman a local Chinese (See Lai) and each in their own language was angrily muttering curses. Though their languages were different there was no doubt about the gist of the complaints. The Gwai Lo was complaining in English that the woman unrightfully claimed the empty seat on which he had thrown his bag to let his girlfriend sit. The See Lai was voicing her indignation at his claiming the seat with his bag in Cantonese and she then landed in the seat anyhow (the Gwai Lo quickly pulling his bag away). So the girlfriend had no choice but occupy a seat opposite of the Gwai Lo, while she was repeatedly crying out ‘shut up’, also annoyed with the See Lai.

In situations like this, the tone of the voice, the gestures and the harping on tell all. There is no need for a common language to understand each other. However, there was also no way to solve the problem, not that they had any intention to do so. The bickering went on for a couple of stations till eventually the Gwai Lo got so upset that he got to his feet again (with his girlfriend at his heels) and remained standing near the exit until he arrived at his destination. Were they having a bad day? Or are these clear signs of cultural differences?

Written by: Audrey